When Tom Ford became creative director at Gucci in 1995, he described his typical Gucci customer as the type of woman who would “pour hot wax over her lover before straddling him”. Ford’s designs unashamedly utilised sex, and his low-rise trousers, high hemlines, slashed-to-the-waist satin shirts and skyscraper heels sexed up the label, possibly saving them from bankruptcy. “Ford put aggression into sex. With his floor-length column gowns – a ‘G’ strategically cut out on the hip – he hinted at what was beneath. After all, sex is a huge part of fashion. We’re more interested in the body beneath the clothes than the garments,” says Richard Gray, the fashion features director at 10 magazine.